Evaluation of the project progression

    The project we have been working on this term, titled "Beauty and the Brand", was about understanding in depth the hair and makeup concepts for fashion and beauty and how they are developed from being just an idea till its realisation. We were required to research and to outline a makeup brand, paying particular attention to its 5P's (Product, Presentation, Packaging, Price point and Promotion). The goal of the entire project was the understanding of our and and peers chosen brands in order to achieve a deep perception of the brand.

    When I first read the brief I was really excited to hear that with this project we are going to focus on a completely different field of makeup and hair design, meaning - Fashion.Working in Fashion Industry is what I am aiming for. The most interesting part of this project for me was creating the designs for all 3 categories (advertising, editorial and Runway looks) and developing the ideas to its fulfilment. I enjoyed the practical parts of the project, when I can create, touch and make things happen with my own hands. The satisfaction of seeing the result of something that I have made with my own hands, in which I have put a lot of effort, is priceless! 

    During our practical sessions I have developed new techniques and improved skills that I already had. In particular I can affirm that I have achieved a lot of technical skills regarding the hair styling. Knowing how to create Beach hair, Sleek ponytails, finger waves and how to use accessories in hairstyles, I believe is going to be of a very big need and really useful for my future career. Unfortunately, I think that out makeup practical sessions weren't as strong as the hair sessions. The only techniques I have learned and I am definitely thankful are the ones regarding the Skin. I achieved knowledge in how to create matte and dewy skin and thanks to our guest speakers I learned skills for how to create perfect skin for a runway look and how to achieve perfect lips in little time. I wish we were taught more in detail how to create perfect eyebrows or how the contouring of the face depends on the shape of the face, as we did for the lesson where we were taught the technique of how correctly to apply the eyeliner. 

    For this project, I have particularly researched information on the famous photographer and makeup artist- Ellis Faas and her brand that namesakes the name of it creator. In addition I researched several worlds famous Fashion designers- as Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, Val Garland, and I have also looked in depth at the Spring/Summer 2016 Trends and I have analysed the images that inspired me for the accomplishment of my work. All these aspects have actually served as inspirations for my own designs and also helped me to understand and further develop the concepts for my own work. Due to these researches I have earned knowledge that served not only to conclude the brief, but also for my personal growth.

   I believe that the most successful part of my project is the practical part. I am very happy and even proud of the looks I managed to create, especially with the Editorial and Advertising looks. The images I created look different from the ones I have created for my previous projects and I believe that the growth, the confidence and the overcome insecurities are noticeable. I have improved a lot my technical skills in post-production and this is another accomplishment for me. 

    I had several problems during this term with this project. First of all, a big issue for me was that Ellis Faas is a brand that doesn't "shout out" as MAC or Illamasqua or other brands from which we had to choose. I would define it more as a "Silent" Brand and I guess this is the reason why I had difficulties in finding all the information I wanted from the very beginning. It is an interesting and unique in its own way brand, but the information I could find about it is basic in my point of view and I found it very hard to go in depth with my research. I tried different approaches, as for example emailing the company, or search information in other languages, hoping that this way I would be able to expand my research, but it didn't help much. I think it affected my research in a certain way even though I tried to solve this problem by logically analysing the products, the Editorial and Advertising images, by looking for reviews and publications on social network and carefully reading and analysing the official website of the brand.

    Overall, despite all difficulties, this project helped me grow not only from a professional point of view but also on a personal level. If I would have the chance to complete the project again, I would probably choose another brand and I would create more outcomes, as this was my favourite part of this project.

Final Edited images

   For the advertisement images, when editing them, I thought to include in the image the logo of the brand and the product I am advertising, but when I started to look for advertisement images of Ellis Faas, I have noticed that the adverts are different from what I imagined them to be actually. In general, Ellis Faas adverts do not really include the product in the image. Maximum I could see is the Logo of the brand. The adverts look more like editorial images in where the product is catches the attention through the application and the design itself. The product become understood and obvious. I believe that through designs I created, in which I am trying to advertise Certain products from this brand, it is easy noticeable what I am focusing on.
   Here are some examples of the advertisement images for Ellis Faas:

http://www.makeup4all.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Ellis-Faas-Ellis-Red-Set-promo.jpg

http://www.heavensalon.com/cm/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/EllisFaas_Home600x350.jpg

http://www.beauty-school.co.uk/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/ellis-faas.jpg

And The Images I created:

Ellis Faas- (Ellis Red- Creamy lips)

Ellis Faas (Ellis Lights)

    Through the images created for the Catwalk I have tried to introduce the Spring/Summer 2016 trends, for both hair and makeup. In addition I wanted to show the inspiration of Gareth Pugh's collection and to introduce my understanding of the brand through the style not only of the makeup, but the lighting used for the images and the dramatic touch of the looks:

    The Editorial Images, that were really hard to decision to do, came amazing in my point of view. I love the way this images came out. That cold, aggressive and tribal touch is shown perfectly through the lighting used the design of the makeup, the messy styled hair and the model's posing. These images transmit exactly that feeling that I wanted to achieve. I believe that they also perfectly relate to the Ellis Faas concept Behind the short film "Identity Revealed":

And I cannot make up my mind I have decided to add another image that I really like:

Brand evaluation

   Ellis Faas is "one of the most influential make-up artists of her time" (Vogue, Paris). Ellis Faas is also the name of a brand of cosmetic products bearing the name of its creator. Earlier, Ellis’ goal was to become a photographer, but after meeting with Mario Testino and after the term of the contract with L'Oreal in 2007, she launched her own brand. 

    This line of makeup is unique and what makes it so, is the concept behind it -that she coins as "Human Colours". The colours and shades that are present in our bodies are multiple and rich, which in a certain way unites us all humans. Based on this complex range, this cosmetic line creates a perfect balance between the skin tone and the shade of makeup applied. That's why with Ellis Faas you can create the perfect balance between the skin and the tone and shades of makeup from this line.

     All Ellis Faas products are "cruelty free", which has authoritatively been recognised by PETA. The suppliers of the brand stopped testing the ingredients/products on the animals much sooner than that turned into a law. For this reason we can see regularly under the logo, the adage: "ELLIS FAAS-only tested on supermodels."  

    We must also mention the fact that all products of this brand are natural based, vegetarian extracted or, some products are even vegan. For this reason, the Ellis Faas cosmetic products are suitable not only to each skin tone, but also for any age, every sex, every race. In addition, all Ellis products have liquid consistency (with the exception of the compact powder), which is another feature that makes this brand unique in its way of being.

     The packaging is designed in a very artistic, original and interesting characteristic. The majority of the makeup line comes packaged in pen dispensers that are very easy to use. The structure of the pens resemble bullets of guns, which in turn, relates to the charity initiative for children who are in war zones. This initiative is a great act of generosity that makes it even more remarkable brand.

    Not only the packaging is an interesting detail, or the concept behind the brand and all that determines it, but also the style of Ellis, the way in which she expresses her creativity and the way the products are promoted. The Ellis style is reflected in the images created to advertise the products. Dramatic, unusual, original, even Avant-Garde - are adjectives which perfectly describes her work.

     In conclusion, I would say that Ellis Faas is a unique brand and very special in its own way, for its characteristics, its promotion and its quality. The drama and originality that transmits through the images that represent the products of this line of makeup, show the creative spirit of its creator. Due to my choice to research and define Ellis Faas as a brand, I discovered new things, I have improved the little knowledge I had about this brand and improved my understanding of branding.

Dark Beauty Magazine

    For my Editorial images I thought to create several spreads, as they would actually go in a magazine. The reason why I decided to do that is because I haven't actually created two different looks for the editorial. I extended and changed the same look while shooting it. As a final result, the images came out very different from each other, as like they were actually 2 designs. If thinking realistically, the only thing remaining the same is the faces makeup design, while the styling, the body painting, the lighting... all these details changes a lot throughout the shooting. There is a lot of movement and progress being noticed. After meeting with the course tutor, she advised me to stick with those images I have created because there is already a lot of progress. So, I decided to submit more than 2 images in order to show this development.
    I started to think then to create the spreads, as I am particularly happy with the result.
I have started to look for which magazine they would be suitable for, taking in consideration the style and the concept behind the images. After looking for the suitable magazine, I remembered about "Dark Beauty Magazine" that I actually follow on social medias and adore its style and the creative looks they publish.
    Dark Beauty is a magazine dedicated to artists, fashion designers, photographers, musicians, and actors who crave dark glamour. This magazine provide a new avenue for promoting new talents who are not scared to risk and dares to push the envelope and bling dreams, ideas and fantasies to life. The audience is basically formed of young adults, aged 18 and above, particularly for those who have passion for dark glamour and this kind of art. I believe that the images I created fits perfectly with this magazine, and especially after looking more into the images they publish.
    At the beginning I was thinking that I need to find a magazine that would actually suit with Ellis Faas looks. But then I realized that the looks I created are actually inspired by her works, and in particular the short film: "Identity Revealed", which actually has a dark side and transmits that maybe"creepy" in some way feeling.

http://www.darkbeautymag.com/wp-content/uploads/edd/2014/11/ISSUE-38-Cover.jpg

http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/amber-gray-relapse6.jpg

Similarity between the Catwalk and Editoria & Ellis Faasl looks

    In my point of view the editorial and the catwalk designs are linked between them in a certain way.  They are obviously different looks but in terms of style and character of the design they have several similarities. I guess the similarities between these designs are due to the fact that all of them were inspired and related to the brand we have chosen. All our images, in the end, reflects in a certain way the brand's style, it's concept and the way we understand it.

    At the beginning, when I was actually thinking about each design, I didn't think of a way to relate them or create a similarity between the designs, but I realise that even if accidentally they are linked. 

    First of all, I would describe the looks- quite dramatic and avant-garde. All the looks seem to be inspired from the same source- the looks created by Ellis Faas. To be more specific, they are in particular inspired by that pure art we can see in the short film by Ellis Faas: "Identity Revealed" :

   All the designs used in this short film have basically the same concept. All the looks are tribal, full of originality, really creative and unique. A lot of accessories are used in these designs, some of them to complete the hair look, others are the form the actual makeup. I found the style of the designs in this short film very familiar to mine. I love using accessories in my own looks and create very artistic, and unusual compositions, quite dramatic, probably is the right word to describe my ideas/work. Similar to Ellis Faas' work, I try to keep a balance between the hair and the makeup. With this I mean that if the makeup is very sophisticated from my point of view, then I will try to have a "softer", less prominent hairstyle.

   Analysing the images I created, in particular the editorial looks and the catwalk looks, have an artistic touch and reveal a wild sense in a way. The created designs, show a link with primitive subcultures, recalling traditions and customs of the tribes of the various parts of the world, particularly that geographically belong to the African continent. Starting from the Editorial looks that are the most "tribal" ones, the makeup is actually built of lines, patterns and unsymmetrical elements. So is the first catwalk design that is composed of irregular, dramatic and unusual eye makeup. In addition both- Editorial and catwalk look Nr.1 (Red Bow), the eyes are dark, bold and dramatic. On the second Catwalk look (the Golden Coins), the dramatic and quite tribal touch can be seen in the hairstyle. 

 

Final Catwalk look

    The design created for the Timed assessment was the first design out of to looks we had to create. This look was inspired from Gareth Pugh's Spring/Summer 2016 collection. My inspirations can be seen even through the outfit used for this shooting. I have tried to interpret the outfits of the collection and also to transmit the style of designer through the makeup and the hair created.
    The makeup consists of perfect matte skin, with a slight contouring (on the forehead, under the cheek-bones and under the jaw line); and highlighted the cheekbones. After that I have passed on doing the makeup on the eyes. Using the Kryolan Supracolor (black), I started the eye design. I applied the black colour on the entire eyelid till, reaching the eyebrow. I did a thick black line underneath as well. Then I started to do the fleeks on the top of the eyebrows, going all around towards the temples and all the way round till the nose. I applied the black Illamasqua eyeshadow over all the eyelid where the black colour was already applied. The black eyeshadow served for avoiding the colour to get smudged when the model opened her eyes. In addition, it makes the colour even more pigmented. After the entire makeup was done, I applied Illamasqua false eyelashes.
    I then finished the contouring Using the Illamasqua Sculpting powder, and highlighted the skin Using a combination of two shades of Revolution Highlighter. The last touch where the lips that most of all where inspired by the Gareth Pugh's Spring/Summer 2016 collection, and in particular by those clothing items that had Red & White stripes. This is why even the lip design where exactly with the same colours. The edges of the lips were red while the inner part of the lips.
    For the hair I have created 5 small twists on each side that were arriving till the temple heights and I tighten them with clear hair bands. On the top of the head I back-combed all the hair, mostly at the roots. This helped me to achieve the desired volume. Then I made a Dutch braid. I loosen it to create a messy look and also because I love the shape that a loosen braid has. It gave a more sophisticated touch to the entire look. The plait was twisted under the braid.
    For the outfit, I wanted to recreate in some way an outfit from the actual collection. To be more specific, the red jacket with a massive red bow on the neck side. As I couldn't find a red jacket I went for a plain white jacket. I thought that using an alternative colour wouldn't be a problem, especially as white was also a colour often seen on the runway. It also made mode impact together with the red bow. The combination of two, matched perfectly the lips colours as well.

Final images (Advertisement). Finding similarities!

   Here are some images from the last Advertisement shooting. I still have to edit the pictures and to choose the most relevant one. I would consider this look the Night look because I would say that it is much more dramatic than the other Advertisement look that I have created. The background is explaining it as well. The black background-represents the night and the yellow background in the other advertisement image represents the day look.

 The more I look at this pictures the more I find similarities with the looks created by Ellis Faas. In my point of view is because of the lighting, and the posing of the model gives me the same feeling as the image created by Ellis. If analysing the images created by Ellis Faas, we can notice a certain similarity: The lighting which is quite similar in every picture, the model's lost looks (not a camera look), the way they pose, most of them are quite dramatic looks, the sleek hair, and even the fact that all of them are naked. They are all related, all of them are based on the same concept, and I have only realised it now, after analysing my last Advertisement image  and seeing the similarity between them.

Facechart and Practice for Ellis Faas Lights

    The face chart shown represents my final design for this advertisement look for Ellis Faas Lights. I wanted to create a nice soft dewy skin, with a very light contouring just to put in evidence the structure of the face. On the left side I want to apply the zip and inside of the zip to apply the product I am advertising. On the other eye a very natural eye makeup with very light and natural eyeshadows that are going to be nearly invisible. The lips also of a natural colour similar to the model's lip colour, and a very light application of highlighter on the cheekbones.

    Regarding the hair, I thought to gather it into a very sleek ponytail as in this case I want that the whole attention goes on the makeup, or better the advertised product, then the hairstyling or other details that may catch the eye.

I have practiced the look and I am very happy with the result, but the zip has to be applied higher up, because this way it doesn't look continuous and give the impression that something is missing. I want it to cover entirely the skin surface that is applied on, so that it reaches the hair. I love the way the lighting is reflecting the golden makeup inside the zip. I think that this way, it literally represents the idea of Ellis Faas LIGHT! Even the products that I am advertising with this makeup is not the actual Ellis Faas product, but I tried to create the same texture and shade as the real product. I have used Kryolan Gold Supracolor and I have mixed it with Euphidra Skin Color Compact Highlighter that also comes in grease paste.

Inspiration for the Second Advertisement look

    Looking at the looks created by Ellis Faas, I tried to find inspiration for this second advertisement look. As the product chosen is Ellis Faas Lights, I wanted to create something that would obviously put in evidence the product. I want to transmit the message through the look and the image created. I want that image to shout: "Let the light touch your skin!" or something similar to that.  At this point for some reason the Famous makeup usually seen for Halloween- "Zipper face" popped on my mind:

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigHkFZahoFDmKRR01vpplQXJxDNn35JGYtDEZPmMmAgH5fh2ntddu3tJWS__Qgsrwnwiya6KAq70mCJeJTAEFDuGi5ebwGqghezKwaGVfcbI2YdfPzFTcue7KAmdfsph8U4qSgMMrmgYQ/s1600/Unzipped+Zipper+Face+Makeup+2.jpg

    For Halloween this makeup is used as a special effect, while I thought that I could use it in a more delicate way, transforming it into a visual message that I want my design to transmit. So I thought that if I the product is going to be inside the zip it would kind of send the same visual understanding. The more I was thinking of the meaning and of the concept of this design, the more I thought that it's suitable. I also researched for more editorial images in that maybe have the same concept:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/IZlHXVat7I0/hqdefault.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/25/6b/5b/256b5bda834d7256e6db0cc0a1267acb.jpg

 Similar to this last image, I wanted that the light in the image is coming from up towards that unzipped part of the face and the entire space in it to be covered with the product I am advertising. I believe that this kind of advertisement will be easy to understand also for someone who maybe doesn't have that much experience and understanding of makeup.

Debating the product for the Second Advertisement look

    At the very beginning I thought to advertise the Skin Veil Foundation by Ellis Faas. After reading the positive reviews and the way the company advertises it, it left a positive impact on me. I also wanted to advertise the Foundation from a personal preference: Foundation- Is a vital product for myself, and this influenced my choice too.
    After looking more into Ellis Faas products, my eye was caught by other products:

1. Ellis Faas- Glow up
2. Ellis Faas Lights

https://www.ellisfaas.com/uploads/cache/
c6b2bfed8e525b905b9a9477b038b7d61f792ef7.jpg

   Ellis Faas "Glow up" - is also a skin product. The name itself already explains the use of it. It is highlighter that contains reflective pearls. This product attracts light to the parts you apply it on. Playing with light is one of the favourite trick of a makeup artist. "Light underlines shape and gleam. Pulling in light to specific parts of your face will enlighten it and breath life into it. The most ideal approach to draw in light to your face is with the delicate center properties of the intelligent pearls in Glow Up. These finely processed particles give brilliance a delicate unpretentious sparkle. It abandons you with a fragile gleam that veils any defects, including a silk delicate and porcelain wrap up. 

    Apply the iridescent powder to parts of the skin on which light falls first: your upper cheekbones, the scaffold of your nose, the Cupid bow of your lip, and collarbone. Playing with light makes an alluring accentuation on bone structure, and improves your sound and young appearance. GlowUp's skim on application gives a smooth feeling because of its micronisation innovation. Shine Up additionally shields the skin from nature since it contains vitamin E."  - (Ellis Faas)

http://www.galinka.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/IMG_4434.jpg

https://www.ellisfaas.com/collection/eyes/lights/e302

    The second product- Ellis Faas Lights in some way can be seen quite similar to the previous one. I mean, is also a product that attracts the light and has reflecting pearls, but is part of another category. 

    "Ellis Lights are a great deal more than just highlighters. Albeit fluid, they dry upon application. Lights have a brilliantly smooth completion, so you won't feel any stickiness and you'll dodge those troublesome eyelid wrinkles. To make the deception of metallic eyes, both as a completely hued eyelid, or utilized topically. In blend with Creamy Eyes, the Lights give unending potential outcomes to play with shadow and light – which is precisely what applying cosmetics is about."  -(Ellis Faas)

http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/biancazen1/media/biancazen2/ellisfaas.jpg.html

   Analysing the products and the images that are used as advertisements for both products, I arrived at the conclusion that for the consistence the Ellis Faas Glow up products cannot obviously give this result as in the image that advertises the product. It is obvious that to create that look the artist used a silver or grey pigmented product underneath the Glow up powder. While the Ellis Faas Lights are pigmented by themselves and even the advertisement look more realistic. Both product have the same  role: to HIGHLIGHT,  so why not doing it in a realistic way, this is why I have chosen the ELLIS FAAS LIGHTS.

Reference:

https://www.ellisfaas.com/collection/eyes/lights/e302

https://www.ellisfaas.com/collection/skin/glow-up/

Avant-Garde Hair(Technical File)- Finger waves

http://www.buzzle.com/img/articleImages/
394902-10613-53.jpg

A finger wave is a technique for setting hair into waves (twists) that was prominent in the 1920s and 1930s and in the late 1990s in North America and Europe. The procedure includes squeezing the hair between the fingers and brushing the hair in rotating headings to make a wave shape.
To create finger waves hairstyles:

Tools:

•  Water spray
• Hair gel
• Hair brush
• Tail comb
• Silver section clips

How to:

• First of all wash the hair or wet it very very well, until is soaked.
• Apply hair product in it, in this case the hair gel that will help to style it and make it stay.
• Brush through the hair, in order to have it sleek, divided by the parting you want
• Start creating the shape: Using a tail comb, brush it in one direction(towards the face for example), then push the hair with the com back and pinch it in between the fingers.
• Brush the hair the opposite way now and start doing the same movements.
• Use Silver section clips to to keep the "pinched" hair in position until it dries.

The S shape:

For the S shapes waves, the way of doing it is very similar to the previous one:

• Wash or wet the hair very well, and do to not towel dry it, because it has to be soaked.
• Apply hair product (gel) to help it to stay in place
• Brush the hair using a tail comb, directioning the hair in one direction
• with your finger hold the part where you want to create the wave and while holding it brush towards the opposite direction
• Repeat the same procedure 
• Using a silver section clip, you can clip that section where the wave is made to keep it in place until is dry.

Using Curling tongs:

You can also create waves by using Curling tongs directly on the dry hair.

•  Brush the hair to avoid having nods
• Using a tail comb, take s small section of hair
• Curl it downwards. Use small/thin tongs in order to have nicer and more frequent waves.
• Make sure that all the sections are the same size.
• Curl all the way down
• Once it cooled down, Use a brush and and brush through the hair, but follow the hair with your hand to maintain the shape.
• Now arrange/ style the hair the way you want it to look.

Final Images- Editorial look. Story

    The following pictures represent my final images for the editorial look. I still have to choose the final one and this is going to be a hard decision because I am very happy with the final look. The model in the pictures is a professional model, working for Elite Model Management Italy. I also thought that using a male model for this look would be suitable because Ellis Faas had as model for her looks her brother too, which shows again that the makeup brand created by the artist has no ages, no gender or skin colour stereotypes:

    

    

    As it can be noticed, in these images, one after another there is more and more going on. Movement and details are added to the pictures. I have started with close ups and slowly moved to midlength pictures. Through this I am demonstrating the development of the look as well the the development of the character. The story itself behind these pictures improves and that is shown through the change of the lighting too. 

 The story behind the images:

     The close-ups at the beginning show clearly the make-up applied. The lighting at the same time indicate the start of a long journey and the evolution of this character- the warrior. Everyone starts from the bottom to reach the top. This is what I wanted to show in my images. The warrior began his journey from being innocent, gaining more courage and become a fierce man, determined and fearless. With experience and the passage of time, everyone grows and learns to overcome not only the difficulties but also learn to be more aggressive and cruel and independent. The change and development is, as we have already said, even through the light used in the studio that becomes more drastic and cold. There start to appear small details slowly. At the beginning appears the spiked belt that represents the bullets. It is the first step to a fight, and here is the smoke as well which is coming out through the nose showing anger and determination. The smoke is fading out slightly, as after a fight or a war there is smoke from guns and dust. Then on the body appears more paint which looks like dirt and signs- kind of post fight. The hand print on the body is something taken from the tribal cultures. In some tribes this is the symbol of victory.