Friday 26 February 2016

Technical file- eyeliner

"Graphic eyeliner"- this is how the Spring/Summer make-up trend is defined. The eyeliner is back!

  
http://www.girlshue.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Best-
Liquid-Cat-Eye-liner-Styles-Trends-Ideas-For-Girls-2014-4.jpg

So,  in our Make-up practical sessions we were asked to practice working with eyeliner and to create 3 different looks. The first one will represent the day look, a subtle line very close to the lashline, with a small flick. The second look will have a more dramatic "character". The line is going to be thicker and the flick even longer to thicker too. The third look will represent more of a catwalk look, and with this I mean that it is over-dramatised or unusual as well as colourful.

My first model is Vicky. I firstly observed her eye-shape and tried to create the eyeliner look in order to suit with her eyes-shape. As she is Asian, she has a dropping eyelid and almond-shaped eyes. Here is the first look:


Second look, night look:


The third look:

After that I have practiced the eyeliner look on another model- Liliana. she has different eye- shape. Deep and round eyes, this is how I would describe it.


The day look:

Night look:

Catwalk look:

I have found some difficulties in applying the eyeliner at the beginning and especially when I had to create a straight line and very close to the lash line. I left some gaps next to the lash line when I have applied the eyeliner and then I understood that the problem was in not raising enough the eyelid and in using an angled brush that actually was too big. After I have changed the brush for a thinner one, applying the eyeliner was easier. Also, it is important to make the model to look in the opposite direction from where you are applying the product. Overall I am happy with the result and the key to it is just practice. 

Spring/Summer 2016 Make-up and Hair trends


    Spring/Summer 2016 has brought new exciting and interesting makeup trends.
    This season saw the presentation of huge eyelashes, as spidery long false eyelashes, and short, sharp comic book styles. Realistic, and more precisely graphic eyeliner, additionally, showed up on a few catwalks.
    For lips is more about red hues, matte red - if being more specific. But then the question that pumps up is: What is the colour of the season? Well, if paying attention to the catwalks makeup, it is quite obvious: Blue. Blue is the trend colour of the season.

I will introduce some designers catwalk looks to render more the idea of the make-up trends of this season:

  1. Louis Vuitton

https://priscillasmodels.files.wordpress.com/2015/10/a2x0017.jpgChan
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/74/6c/1c/746c1c57d18929e215eb7efd4bf57671.jpg
Pat McGrath is the makeup artist who created this hippy dolly look by making a combination of rough and slick elements and  marking it with those with those statement lower lash clusters. 

    2. Chanel


http://www.theblondesalad.com/slir/w520-h640/http://www.theblondesalad.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/5374981_1_urn-newsml-dpa-com-20090101-151006-99-05679_large_4_3.jpg
http://api.ning.com/files/GTT*uiEbDrqF65QG9Z2mODB4rZZVuScCZADo908e6ZxCl-AfrOQzTE*4-4Cl0wrYLrt9JpvACSssZPCexJvT5ZOvw2OK2NGR/118996~75855510_1309383049_n.jpg?width=420

Models upheld washes of blue eye shadow in a sort of marauder style. Exceptionally unique look. Chanel's "All Blue Rhythm Collection" was capable that is the significant Spring Summer for nailing the blue eye pattern. The hair was made by the well known Sam Knight who gave Childhood ponytails, a chic turn with twofold barrettes connecting them at the back.

3. Celine
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/fashion/OCT/oct4/celine-lead-square-large.jpg

http://hbz.h-cdn.co/assets/15/40/980x490/gallery-1443989627-hbz-pfw-ss16-beauty-celine-lips-hair.jpg

The motivation for Celine backstage was the 80s English artist Sade. Beautician Guido made a cleaned, clean twisted pig tail. "I began by blow drying the hair extremely smooth and maneuvered it again into a pig tail amidst the head to plait." Make-up was negligible bar a smooth of red lipstick.

4. Missoni


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http://do5ctr7j643mo.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/12074616/missoni-1171-ss16-pw_high-600x902.jpg



Considering the long outlines of the accumulation, Turner said he needed to accentuate and stretch the neck profile. Working with Moroccanoil items, he stacked Root Boost and Volumizing Mousse into wet hair. Hair was then pushed back, split into two segments at the back, laid over one another, pulled tight, wrapped over the scalp and lacquered with Luminous Hairspray. "It's as though a lady just escaped the pool and inexplicably tied her hair in a tangle," he said. 


Cosmetics craftsman Lucia Pieroni made a "lively tribal" look with MAC Cosmetics by finger-painting shading over the eyelids, including the shades Pure White, Hi-Def Cyan, Primary Yellow and Marine Ultra. "I made two strokes," she clarified of the fast strategy. "Whether it goes into the eyebrows or directly over the eyelids relies on upon the eye shape."

5. Alberta Ferretti


http://stylearia.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/AFerretti-SS16-Sept-24-large.jpg

http://www.buro247.my/local/images/buro/Party-Hair-trends-updo.jpg

Charlotte Tilbury made delicate and summery looks that she depicted like: " fantastic sentimental shades of brilliant bronze, gold and pink to make the marvelous look, for an ethereal wonder." She took motivation from nature's characteristic tones, flickering desert nightfall and the sparkling double shades of creepy crawlies. Cricket like corner Lashes were added to make diverse goddess like lady.

6. Max Mara 


http://i0.wp.com/www.fashionisingpictures.net/runway/max-mara-beauty-spring-summer-2016-mfw12.jpg

http://megastyle.ph/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/max-mara-2028-ss16-pw_high3.jpg

While the red and green painted foreheads at Max Mara aren't a look we'd divert off the catwalk, they did convey an intriguing sprinkle of shading to the patterns. 


Blending surfaces and including a lot of tallness, the hair was just as brave.

7. Prada


http://www.konbini.com/en/files/2015/09/prada-ss16-love-mag.jpg

http://dazedimg.dazedgroup.netdna-cdn.com/620/azure/dazed-prod/1140/1/1141502.JPG

'The shape is somewhat 20s but on the other hand it's somewhat like skinhead young ladies in England in the '70s. That exceptionally intense amazing hair. We were taking a gander at pictures of young ladies with bug hair styles, who used to shave their heads however leave the front area long. Trimming hair is a truly compelling thing to do at an appear. We're sufficiently fortunate that at this show we can trim the hair and the young ladies do consent to that sort of amazing explanation. It's the legitimacy of these young ladies having a hair style that make it look intense.' What about when the young ladies wash their hair after the appear? 'We don't pose that question', grinned Palau underhandedly. 
Fortunately a large portion of the models had their next show of the night at Moschino, where they were (unintentionally?) placed in wigs! 

Nothing says incredibly costly superior to a strong gold lip. Make-up craftsman Pat McGrath was squeezing gold color over the highest point of around 2 to 3 layers of dramatic gold lip cream and gold lipstick. 'It's flighty however traditionalist' clarified McGrath. 


'Mrs Prada needed to accomplish something that was extremely solid yet in a way moderate and you can't get any more preservationist than emphasizing the mouth. To put gold on the mouth is something past unpredictable – it makes the young ladies look effective, exceptionally solid and extremely brave.'

8. Vivienne Westwood


https://40.media.tumblr.com/bb1948c9833161664ef8e795d1c0ad1e/tumblr_nv0bj9sX8r1r79qbvo1_500.jpg

http://www.viviennewestwood.com/sites/default/files/RedLabel_
SS16_Backstage_LoRes_001_ph.KamilKustosz_109%20copy.jpg





Backstage explanation of the inspiration and ideas for the HAIR, MAKE-UP AND NAILS for Vivienne Westwood SS 2016


These are only some of the SPRING/SUMMER 2016 Catwalk looks. The big variety of make-up looks and hair styles show the identity of each designer, but despite the big differences and uniqueness, they all have a commun aspect: The Spring/Summer 2016 trend: either sleek or messy hairstyles, a great looking skin, and "graphic" designs around the eyes !

links:
 http://www.telegraph.co.uk/beauty/make-up/spring-summer-2016-make-up-trends/Celine-Beauty-SS16/






Sunday 21 February 2016

Technical file- Contouring

     Contouring the face has become a "must" even for the day by day make-up. What is it??? Contouring the face is when you give definition to your face. Contouring is using two shades darker than your skin tone to shade and define the areas that you'd like to reshape or define.


  • First of all I have cleansed, toned and moisturised the face. 
  • I have applied the MAC Studio Sculpt foundation. 
  • Then using the Smashbox contouring pens, I have highlighted the centre of the forehead, under the eyes, the cheekbones, the chin and the centre of the nose. 
  • Using the contouring pen, I shaded near the hairline, the temples, under the cheekbones and under the jaw line. 
  • After blending everything well, until no harsh lines were visible, I have applied Laura Mercier Translucent powder.
  • Then I applied a very small amount of Illamasqua Bronzer under the cheekbones to give it more definition and Highlighted after, using Revlon Highlighting palette. I used the a small amount of highlighter on the cheekbones, under the eyebrows, a little bit on the forehead and nose.




Technical file- Eyebrows

During a practical session we had to experiment with different eyebrow shapes. Picture No.1 is going to show the model's eyebrows with no make-up on them. The 2. will show the model's eyebrows as she usually does her own eyebrows. No.3 is going to show the model's eyebrows from my own point of view and finally 4. will show a Catwalk eyebrow look.

My first model was Vicky:
 1. Natural eyebrows. Vicky's eyebrows, even with no makeup on have a pretty well-defined shape, even though, they look sparse in some places and maybe some more definition on the top of them.
 2. The way my model does the shape of her eyebrows.  I asked her how she wants her eyebrows to be done and she said that she just wants them to be filled in. Other than that she is happy with her natural shape and the way they naturally grow. I used a dark brown eyeshadow and an angled brush to define my model's eyebrows.

 3. From my point of view,  the way she wanted her eyebrows was very soft and this is why I decided to define more he shape of her eyebrows. So, I gave them a harsher definition. then using a light concealer I have perfected the shape. One thing I would do though, but I couldn't is - I would trim her natural eyebrows because I think they are too long and hard to work with.

 4.The catwalk eyebrows  were inspired by Miu Miu SS 2016 - very bold and defined in the inner side and more faded at the ends. As my model's natural hair colour is very dark brown, nearly black I left the faded part being her natural hair without applying any makeup on and using black eyeshadow I defined the inner parts of the eyebrows.



 Second model was Lily


 1. This are Lily's natural eyebrows without any makeup on. Her natural eyebrows have a nice, defined shape, and they are well groomed as well.


 2. For the first look she told me that usually she fills them in, making them more pigmented and defining the shape, especially as at the edges they need to be filled in.

 3. When it came to the stage where I had to create the look based on my own point of view, I thought that actually as my model's eyebrows have a nice shape and they are pretty defined, I Just filled them in using a small angled brush and Illamasqua black eyeshadow and filled them in and defined the shape. You can hardly notice the difference between the previous look and the one I am describing now.



 4. For the catwalk eyebrow look, I took inspiration from Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2016 look. First I filled in the eyebrow with black eyeshadow and the by using a mascara wand that I sprayed with a little bit of hairspray, and went with it against the direction of hair growth and lifting the hairs upwards.





Technical file - 60's hairstyle

The 60's hairstyle have left their prints till nowadays. We can still see these retro inspired hairstyles on the red carpets and even sometimes on the street. But what makes this hairstyle to be so loved by the society? The answer is "height".
http://img.careforhair.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Adele-Hairstyles-Beehive-Updo-With-Bangs.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/4c/
b6/49/4cb649d800ac021304f9e941174d1d94.jpg
http://www.prettydesigns.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Gl
amorous-Retro-60%E2%80%B2s-Hairstyles-for-Women-5.jpg
During a practical session  we were given the opportunity to choose one of the retro hairstyles: the 50's, the 60's or 70's. As mentioned earlier, I have chosen the 60's hairstyle. 

For creating this hairstyle I used:

  • Paddle brush
  • Hot rollers
  • Tail comb
  • Kirby pins
  • Hairspray
First of all I have brushed the hair and sectioned it: from ear to ear section, that I divided in 2 parts by doing a middle section.
   When the hot rollers were hot enough I put the rollers in the front section, directioning the rollers towards the ear from both sides maintaining the middle parting. For this part I have used the medium rollers to avoid the exaggerated volume but still achieving nice, wavy shape.
    Once I have finished with the front, I started to work on that back, working in what we call "Brick work"- to avoid having gaps. On the top of the head I used big rollers to have more volume, while at the bottom I went for medium rollers:
                


    When the rollers cooled down I took the off, getting beautiful big curls:
 

I have brushed the hair but still trying to keep the shape of it. The I have backcombed the top at the back to give it even more height, and using Kirby Pins I pinned at the back, hiding the pins. I sprayed the hair a little bit just to fix the rebel hairs and then I have tried to arrange the front section. 
 


The front hair was way too long for making it look as I actually wanted but it still represents my idea.